Sunday, January 11, 2015

My Experience Thus Far...

Cold!
I just recently passed the four month mark of my contract which means I am one third of the way through my Korean adventure.  I think it was the first time I was able to take a step back and review my time spent here and the roller coaster of emotions that comes with being an a foreigner in a new country.  Of course, I cannot speak for everyone, each of us have made our own unique experience and with that comes our own unique path of processing.  However, some of you from the home land have wondered (and even worried) why I haven't been as vocal or posting as many blogs or pictures on social media so I thought maybe some insight to life as an expat might be helpful. 

Rest assured I am not only ok, I am fabulous.  But for anyone wondering, and maybe even those reading this who are planning on going through the same adventure, here is an up close and personal view to what the last four months have meant for me...


Month One - "Ahhh!" (to be interpreted in every sense)
For those of you who have been following my blog you know that my flight here was both "holy bejezus this is so exciting" and "what the f did I just get myself into?".  You land and are immediately thrust into this purgatory-like orientation of people going through the same exact emotions as you.  It's a thrilling college-dorm-like experience of meeting new people, taking mini explorations off campus where you practice your first bit of Korean and see if you actually can navigate around a new world.  All within the comfort of a few blocks from a campus full of foreigners and English-speaking Koreans to use as a safety net.  I remember the first thing I actually said to a Korean on the street was 커피 주세요, which means "Coffee please?" or "Do you have coffee?"  A phrase I still cherish to this day.

Orientation was the time to get to know the other people in your area as well as surrounding areas in hopes that when you're first dropped into your apartment you won't feel completely and utterly alone.  And even though it feels like it's months long (in actuality it's under two weeks), all of a sudden you're boarding buses to cut the chord and head off to your new life, a daunting but exhilarating feeling.

Very quickly you go from the security blanket of orientation to meeting your new co-teacher, buying supplies to set up your apartment, spending your first night alone, and starting your first day of school.  For some of us that was a 24 hour period.  For me, I had a few days before the school year started which gave me plenty of time to sit at my new desk and fill myself with an anxiety of "what's".  What am I supposed to teach them?  What do I use to teach them?  What if they don't understand anything I say? What am I supposed to even do the first day?

Classes begin within a couple days and you become an instant celebrity.  Everyone bows to you in the hallways, students giggle with excitement at your presence, and your coworkers want to know everything there is to know about you.  You'll answer the same questions fifty times a day, "I am American", "I am 31 years old", "No, I do not have a boyfriend", "I don't know what my blood type is", "Yes, I like Korean food", "Yes, I know how to use chopsticks".

The first month, you learn to get into the grove quickly and you learn to be prepared for sudden changes.  Adaptation becomes part of your life, a necessary quality.  You learn to make friends wherever you can.  You learn to be respectful and careful about everything you do.  You learn to be stared at, gawked at, pointed at, questioned and sometimes even avoided.  (in the proceeding months you learn that the last sentence doesn't change)


Month Two - The month of a thousand bus trips.
Now that I had the hang of what to do at school, a bank account, internet, a routine of how to get to and from my bus stops and the grocery store, and where the closest ATM was it was time to explore this country further.  The adventurous spirit kicks in and I spent almost every weekend exploring a new area of my city or a different city.  I visited friends in Seoul, I went on many hiking adventures, I filled my weekend with festivals, I ate bugs, I saw beautiful lanterns, I joined a drumming class, and I tried as many new foods as I could.  Not only that but I attempted to recreate those dishes at home as well. 

I was getting the hang of things, learning the bus system, developing my core group of friends and saying yes to everything.  There was no rest in this month, no time to rest, only time to explore.  I had ants in the pants, so-to-speak.  I couldn't sit still, I wanted to see more and do more, constantly. 

There was a constant need for socialization as well.  If I went all day at school, barely speaking bits of English, then home to be alone (which was a pretty new experience for me personally), I would feel secluded and a burning desire to just talk in my native tongue, for as long as I was able to.  My friends must have felt the same way because weeknight dinners were quite common in that second month.  We relied on each other heavily, and while no one really spoke about it too much at the time, socializing and speaking to each other in English as often as possible, was a much needed requirement for getting adjusted to the new world we lived in.

The staring, gawking, and pointing from native Koreans became even more apparent in the second month, except I started to get a little less uncomfortable, a little more accustomed to it, and even had a "yes I'm new and exciting aren't I?" attitude towards it.  It wasn't so bad, it wasn't done with any sort of malice, I was just interesting to them, and hey there's nothing wrong with that right?


Month Three - This is my hood.
Month three began with a bang.  I went on the most amazing and most difficult adventure of my life which was a wonderful way to close out a full month of scurrying around South Korea seeing as much as I could see.  I needed to sit back, relax and become accustomed to my new life.  And that I did.  Adventures became few and far between in this month as I settled into a routine.  I was going to the gym every day, still doing drumming classes, weekly dinners with friends, and even began an art class. 

I knew how to get around the city, where my favorite bars and restaurants were, which convenience stores had the best sandwiches for a late night snack, how to avoid getting ripped off by a cab driver, and what I needed to say in a restaurant to order food, ask for more water, compliment the dish, and the like.  I was paying bills, complaining about the crazy drivers, cooking at home more, eating out less and using a trip to the grocery store as my adventure of the week.  I was boring and I enjoyed it.

This was my neighborhood now, I could show others around and get to and fro without even being conscious of the path I was taking.  I got used to seeing the same people on my bus to work, walking around my neighborhood, and doing laps in the park across the street.  This when the stares, and gawks and pointing started to become a bit annoying.  I was tired of it, I felt like enough already.  I avoided eye contact, I attempted to pretend I didn't notice the looks when I got on the bus or the ajummas talking about me at the bus stop.  I couldn't even walk down the alley to my street without hearing "waygook!" - "Yes, I get it, I'm different, look at me, all different and what not."  I just wanted to get from point A to point B without being noticed, just once.

I would say in the third month of being here that I became so accustomed to life in Korea that it was almost as if I wasn't even aware that I was living in a foreign country.  It was just home, I had my routine, I had my life here, it was my hood.  I even began to blog and post less because things that may have felt strange and exciting in the beginning were normal to me now.  If I saw a lady who had dyed her dogs ears and tail to match her outfit, I hardly even noticed anymore.  I wouldn't post a picture about it on facebook with a snarky or clever comment and it certainly wasn't blog-worthy.  It was just Korea.


Month Four - Whoa, wake up Shira.
The fourth month of my experience was a bit of a wake up call.  One I needed and welcomed.  It was a month full of holidays that reminded me of home.  Thanksgiving was particularly difficult, I missed home, I missed my family.  But our little group of friends pulled together and with a little creativity and a lot of resourcefulness, made a feast that was as close to the real thing as you can possibly get here in Korea.  We stuck together through the holidays and by the time the New Year approached we had this whole "Western holiday in the East" routine down pat.  I even managed to learn how to make zucchini latkes for my Chanukah dinner.  Each of us struggled during at least one of the holidays with a bit of homesickness.  I had been through this routine during Rosh Hashanah, and even Halloween made me a little nostalgic.  But those were one at a time.  This period of the fourth month incorporated holiday after holiday, reminder after reminder that you weren't home.

And it woke me up.

I wasn't sad.  I was suddenly incredibly proud of myself.  I remember sitting at my window, watching the snow come down, thinking of how I never expected Korea to be this cold when it hit me like a tone of bricks. 

I live in South Korea.

...

I live in South Korea.

I pay my bills here, I get around in a country where I hardly speak the language as if it's not an issue at all.  I go grocery shopping, I joke around with my coworkers about speaking Konglish, I made friends with the man at my convenience store who likes to tease me about what I purchase. I have a gym membership and I know the regulars.  I live in South Korea people!  How cool is that?  I'm proud of myself.  I'm proud of my friends who have done the same as me.  I'm taking it all in again like it's brand new.  I stop and make myself appreciate the little things.  Like the ajumma and ajusshi arguing on the street corner (ajummas always win),  the stance you have to master so you don't fall over on a moving bus, the skill of wrapping a piece of kimchi around a wad of rice, the unusual but amusing love and admiration my Korean coworkers have for Audrey Hepburn, the overwhelming adorableness of Korean babies!

The staring and gawking is still there, and I can't say I'm 100% used to it.  I guess it depends on my mood nowadays.  Sometimes I could care less, I'm doing my thang, you can look if you want.  Sometimes I feel almost embarrassed and still avoid eye contact.  Sometimes I just want to turn around and say "WHAT?!"  But I have accepted the fact that it's a part of my life here.  And I'm too excited and proud of myself that I have a life here to let it affect me too much.


To come...
Who knows?  It's only been four months and I already feel like I've hit every emotion, every low and every high since I said goodbye to Itai at the airport.  And I'm only one third of the way through this process.  I'm excited to see what's coming.  I'm excited to compare Korea to two Southeast Asian countries which I am sure will only make me appreciate SoKo even more.  I'm excited to finish paying off my debt and watch my savings grow.  I'm excited for life now and for what's coming down the pipeline. 

My blogs and posts may not be as frequent as before, but that's only because I'm now getting fully adjusted into my life and I'm actually living rather than spending loads of time talking about living.   I promise I will continue to keep you all posted on what's happening with me.  You can look forward to a blog about my trip to Vietnam, and one about my adventure in Thailand.  I also plan on writing at least two blogs on the food I've experienced here so get excited.  Until then, I've got laundry to do in a washing machine where I still can't read the buttons but I know which ones to hit.


For putting up with a picture-less rant, here are some photos of some of the things I have been up to in the last month or so...

My babies!

Giant Korean snowflakes!


Look what I found in Korea!
Chanukah meal - Latkes!

Street waffle



Nightly police walk under my window.

Xmas gift exchange.

Korean pastries

Snow!

Random sentence generator drawing project...fun times! (5th grade)

"A dog doing taekwondo on Mt. Everest"


"A horse eating pizza on a skateboard."

"Spongebob reading a book with a dragon."

Using adjectives to describe our friends (6th grade)
 
Not nice.


This student described a potato.  "I think she is smart.  I think she is thin.  I think she is kind."



Xmas dinner with the Brits - pigs in a blanket British style.


Yorkshire pudding!

A feast!

Apparently British style Xmas dinners means you cover the entire plate in gravy.

Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Kan?) - the Russian Restaurant???

New Years Eve in Cheongju
Hiking in the snow!


And sometimes when you ask to use the restroom you get escorted to a scary place.

Indian food!

Another (double) birthday celebration in Cheongju!

Monday, December 8, 2014

How to do Thanksgiving in Korea

Admittedly, Thanksgiving was the first time I felt some real home sickness in the almost four months since leaving America.  I won't deny that Rosh Hashanah gave me a tremendous craving for my mother's brisket and Halloween was strange here without much recognition, or candy corn (which I later received in my heavenly mommy package).  But Thanksgiving has always been a favorite of mine, and it is one of those holidays that's synonymous with family, so it was hard being across the world from anyone I share genetic qualities with.

The week of Thanksgiving I realized my little "fivesome" of ladies whom I typically spend my time with are more non-American than American.  We've got two Brits, a Canadian and then Natalie and myself, the 미곡 (Americans) of the group.  Natalie was with her husband who had flown in to visit her that week so as Turkey Day approached I was starting to worry it would just feel like any ol' Thursday.  Sure we had planned to do our own Thanksgiving feast that coming weekend, but I just didn't want the actual day to pass without so much as a dinner roll.  Luckily, Jenni, one of my British friends, swooped in to rescue me from my self-pity and we went out for french fries and beer...because 'Merica.

The next morning, when I had just arrived to school it was actually Thanksgiving dinner time in the states, and I was able to call my family and see them during and after their meal.  I have never been so happy for the invention of FaceTime.  For just a second, I felt like I was there with them and it was just what I needed.

After school that day, a few of us traveled to another city to visit the closest Costco to find some essential items for our Thanksgiving meal.  We knew we would have to make some sacrifices but we were determined to get as close to the traditional food as possible.  Costco was a key player. Not only did we find everything we required but we also had a chance to enjoy some Costco pizza.

Truly never thought, in my life, that I would get excited about Costco pizza.  Korean pizza, however, is an entirely different animal than American pizza, even from the Pizza Hut two blocks from my apartment.  It typically has the most unusual toppings and most often comes with honey to dip it in.  You just can't escape "sweet" here - even on garlic bread - even on pizza.  I once had a slice of pizza that was topped with bacon, potato wedges, and what I assumed was goat cheese by it's appearance but turned out to be mashed potatoes.  On. A. Pizza.  I hope that helps explain my Costco pizza excitement to my more culinary-minded friends who are silently judging me while reading this.

Ok back to Thanksgiving...

So Natalie, Lizzie and I had planned on making the meat, mashed potatoes and stuffing (the staples) while we assigned other items out to our guests.  We gave tasks like bringing plasticware to our non-American friends, and more traditional items such as sweet potato casserole to those who actually understood why putting marshmallows on sweet potatoes wasn't at all weird.  Realizing we had a Korean kitchen to work in with two burners and very limited space we had to get a little creative.  Turkey was not an option.  Not only is it an incredibly foreign bird to this country, meaning incredibly expensive, but actual ovens do not exist here in Korea.  We had to use our two toaster ovens and a microwave to cook the entire feast.  So we opted for pre-cooked, rotisseri chicken from Costco's.  We were also thrilled to find pumpkin and apple pie, pretty massive ones at that.

We had no choice but to put the giant
chicken/pie box in the middle of the aisle.
Sooo, here we are, three girls with three rotisserie chickens, two huge pies, a bag of potatoes and other various items, shoved into a rather large box that we tied up like a Christmas present, traveling via two cabs and one bus to get it back to our home town.  The box was so big, two of us had to carry it, while one person had to clear a path and open doors (that was my job, I managed to wriggle out of carrying the box).  The bus driver insisted on putting it beneath the bus but we insisted harder that there was no way in hell we were going to do that.  Yelling "aniyo, fragile" to the bus driver while they cursed at us caused quite the scene.  Too bad, not sorry - we had pies at stake.  One of the positives to being a foreigner is pretending you don't know what they're saying when it's convenient for you..



Cutting veggies on the floor...
because Korea.
Only enough room to cook one at a time.
We somehow managed to make it all to Natalie's apartment with minimal pie crust damage and spent the entire next day preparing our meal.  I made my mom's stuffing recipe which I had to divide into five tiny tin foil pans to bake in the toaster ovens, but it turned out better than I had expected.  Nothing beats your mother's version but it was a close second.


With no potato masher or peeler, and the efforts of about four to five ladies, the mashed potatoes came out creamy and delicious.  The sweet potatoes, brought by our friend from another town, were fantastic and reminiscent of home.  Another friend brought a broccoli salad in lieu of green bean casserole, since there are no green beans in Korea, which ended up being the perfect compliment to a heavy meal.  We had rolls, we had gravy, we even had deviled eggs as a starter.


Prepped!
Making mashed potatoes with a fork and
a spatula.


The wonders of a toaster oven.
Kate and her sweet potatoes. (You can see our
toaster set up in the background, again on the
floor, again because Korea)









































Deviled egg anyone?
The whole feast.





















It was a really great night that gave us Americans a touch of home in a time where it was most needed.  We played games, had some wine, stuffed ourselves, and each had our own "doggy bag" thanksgiving meal, including leftover pie, to go home with.

Thanksgiving, picnic style.
The whole gang with the selfie-stick.



Soju cheers!

It can be easy to avoid home-sickness when you're busy and having the time of your life in a foreign country.  But in those moments when it hits you that you're so far away from home, it's really nice to be surrounded by people who are just as far away from their home, for just as long as you, and know just what you're feeling.



A few more random photos for you...

Sixth graders leaving notes for me
on the English exam.
"Teacher fighting!"



So we eventually did find a pretty great American-style pizza place...and we were so ridiculously happy.

Ridiculously happy.
He had no orange for our blue moon so he gave
us mandarin oranges



I'm on it!
Some winter pictures for your enjoyment...